We've been in Provence for four days now and so far, this place has exceeded our expectations. Our Airbnb in Menerbes is great! There's nothing like going home to a peaceful chateau at night and waking up in the morning to a spectacular view of the Luberon valley from our window. Francois and Maria, our hosts, are exceptional! Daily breakfasts with them are usually with French pastry, eggs omelette, and fresh fruits from their garden. Every morning they ask what our plans are and offer recommendations on sights to see and restaurants. We oblige and we don't get disappointed.
Roussillon is famous not only because of its colored history but more strikingly, because of its colorful landscape. The exposed earth that abound are in shades of yellow, brown, and red. That is because the town sits on one of the biggest ocher deposits in the world. The ocher is also treated and used as primary building material and so the houses and buildings are also in these beautiful colors. Naturally, Roussillon attracts many artists inspired to capture its vibrant beauty on canvas. For tourists like us, our cameras and smart phones are good enough.
 |
| Roussillon, Provence, France. |
Gordes is undeniably the most beautiful hilltop village in Southern France. Google it. To get the best picture, there is a popular spot on the roadside approaching the town. You have to be very careful, however, because this spot is a flat rock extending out on a cliff with no protective barrier, whatsoever. If you can overcome your fear of falling down a rocky precipice, take the shot during sunset when the sun is behind you and the town is awashed with the soft amber light. You will be rewarded with the most "gorges" photograph. Get it?
Funny story. We approached the photo spot with a group already taking turns snapping shots. Since there was no line or any semblance of organized rotation, we estimated when it was going to be our turn and at that moment, Tess stepped on the flat rock and I got ready with my camera when an older gentleman said, "Excuse me, there's a line," and pointed to a gaggle next to him of what looked like his tour group. Here's why it's funny. In many of our travels we run into tourists who can be so rude -- cutting in line and sometimes shoving people out. This group looked like them and at first we were shocked to hear them say we have to get in line! But from the courteous English we quickly realized our mistake and Tess apologized and a friendly conversation ensued. They even volunteered to take our photo. Touché!
 |
| Gordes, Provence, France. |
L’Isle sur la Sorgue is an "island town" along the Sorgue River and its tributaries and is the only one among all the towns that we visited that is not on a hill. Waterside restaurants and cafés abound. Outside of town is the Lavender Museum. Yes, there is such a thing, and yes, my wife wanted to go in there. I told her I really didn't want to and would rather wait in the car; she gave me THE stare it felt like I was melting. Needless to say, I learned about lavenders more than I care to know.
 |
| Lavender Museum, L’Isle sur la Sorgue, Provence, France. |
After the museum tour, across the street was a
boulangerie next to a
patisserie. I told my wife, "Hey look, a bulalo restaurant next to a patis store!" (Filipino joke.) I don't think she has moved on from the lavender museum snub incident because she didn't think it was funny. We got to L’Isle sur la Sorgue just in time for lunch and we were surprised to see so many people on a weekday! Maybe because it's summer, the town attracts people from all over to its open-air markets, antique stores, and waterways.
 |
| L’Isle sur la Sorgue |
 |
| This waterwheel on the Sorgue river used to power a paper mill. |
Bonnieux probably is situated on the steepest hill in all of Provence. But if you're up to it and willing to hike all the way to the summit, where, interestingly, the parish church and cemetery are located, you will be rewarded with a spectacular view of the valley and the towns on the opposite hills, i.e., Gordes and Roussillon.
 |
| View from the summit of Bonnieux, Provence, France. |
Downhill from Bonnieux is the town of Lacoste. Yes, this is the town that the clothing and apparel brand was named after. But, disappointingly, there is nothing extraordinary about this town except that, according to Francois, it has the moniker of "Ville Fantôme," or ghost town because the large houses are empty most of the year because they are summer getaways for rich Parisians. We drove by and, yes, the town was mostly empty. Maybe it's too early in the summer. A pleasant surprise awaited us, however, at the foot of Lacoste - a big plantation of lavender in full bloom!
 |
| Lavender plantation, Lacoste, Provence, France. |
Maria told us over breakfast, "You have not gone to Provence unless you visit Marseilles. And you must go to the restaurant on the harbor next to the City Hall, they have the best seafood bouillabaisse." So, before lunch one day, we drove south for just over an hour to Marseilles on the A7 freeway, the quickest route, but with a stiff toll - €25. Yup, that's about $28 USD! We went straight to the harbor and looked for parking. And we looked. And we looked. OMG, the place was so crowded it took us almost an hour to find a safe pay parking spot! We were so hungry we beelined to the nearest seafood restaurant recommended by the Trip Advisor app. Damn Maria's recommendation. I really don't think the restaurants differed much, the food was so good!
 |
| Marseilles harbor, Provence, France. |
After lunch we walked around and, would you know, the City Hall is only a block away! Tess and I looked at each other and, overcome with guilt, went to the restaurant and ordered their seafood bouillabaisse. We were so stuffed afterward, we skipped the sightseeing and went straight home.
On our last night in Menerbes, we walked by the town square where they had a stage set up where local musicians were playing to celebrate "Fête de la Musique" or National Music Day. On stage was a long-haired guy playing the guitar and singing Beatles songs. We were told that this same thing was happening all over France. What a concept, the whole world should have a Music Day! We watched and listened for a while then walked to our favorite restaurant,
Bistrot Le 5. The place was overbooked and there was a momentary confusion with our reserved premium table. Luckily, our favorite waitress, who booked us, was there to save the day. She said, "I had to fight for you," with a big smile as she sat us down. Once again, the food was amazing. An added bonus tonight was a really awesome live band.
 |
| Live band at Bistrot Le 5 Restaurant, Menerbes, Provence, France. |
After a long dinner, at close to 11pm, we went by the town square again and sure enough, they still had musicians onstage so we sat down to enjoy the rest of the show. After a while, Tess stood up and left, I assumed to go to the rest room. A few minutes later, she came back with a grin on her face, just in time for the emcee to announce, "We have a guest singer from Hawaii, monsieur Richard, please come up to the stage." I stared at her in disbelief and she said, "Go, they're waiting!"
I've been known to crash restaurant and club gigs but this is like a concert in a foreign town celebrating their National Music Day! Not sure if it was the gratuitous wine during dinner or the tentative self assurance that none of these people knew me and I'm out of there the following day, but I did get up on the stage, borrowed a guitar, and backed up by an awesome pianist, sang a song. The crowd must have had too much beer and wine at that point because they were too generous with their applause afterward.
 |
| Yours truly onstage during National Music Day, Menerbes, Provence, France. |
The following day, after breakfast, we bade Francois and Maria goodbye and left Menerbes with a heavy heart. This town, its people, and all of Provence will forever be etched in our memories.
 |
| Au revoire, Maria and Francois, our gracious Airbnb hosts, Menerbes, Provence, France. |
Back: Menerbes Next: Leaving Provence
