Deutschland (7/7)

Deutschland is what the Germans call their land, which many of them believe, extend beyond their current borders. We spent the last week of our European vacation in Deutschland and based ourselves in Spangdahlem, where Tess’s brother, Tony, and his family are stationed.  We took a train from Avignon to Paris to Bettenburg where we were picked up by Tony and his family. 

On the drive on the Autobahn to Spangdahlem, we immediately noticed the stark difference in the landscape: miles and miles of forests interspersed with miles and miles of fields. The towns are far in between. What a beautiful countryside! This time of year, early summer, is when the vegetation is at its greenest, the days are their warmest and longest. 

Spangdahlem is a US Air Base in Germany and home to the 49th Tactical  Fighter Wing and the 10th Tactical Reconnaissance Wing. We got there at 9pm and the sun was still up. Tony, his wife Sheena, and daughters Sophia and Ahndrea have called this home for 7 years but are now ready to move to their next duty station back in the USA in Florida. As a matter of fact, all their household goods and both their cars have already been shipped and they are now staying in the base’s TLF (aka the base hotel) where we joined them. They took us around the iconic German towns, castles, sites, and beyond:

Trier is about 20 miles south of Spangdahlem and the oldest town in Germany. Built in 15BC by the Roman Empire, it still has edifices standing from that era, including the Porta Nigra, the north gate. Trier, to my wife’s delight, also has brand-name shops that cater to every woman’s shopping desire. Augustus Caesar would have been proud.

Porta Nigra, Trier, Germany.

Germany has hundreds of castles but in these parts, the must-see ones are Bernkastel-Kues (BK) and the Eltz Castle. BK is on top of a big hill overlooking rows and rows of vineyards along the hill slopes, the town, and the Mosel River. The castle has a fine dining restaurant and while up there, one can imagine during medieval times the Count and Countess and their guests overlooking their fief as far as the eyes can see. The Eltz Castle, on the other hand, is hidden away from the towns and is in the bottom  of a ravine, with its own bridge across a stream, no doubt doubling as a barrier. The castle blends with the topography and foliage which is one reason it has survived centuries of invasions; the main reason, Sheena explained, is that the families that owned the castle, passed down over the years, have been known to be adept in establishing good relationships with whoever was in power.

View of the town, Mosel river, and vineyards from the Bernkastel-Kues castle.

Gazing at the Bernkastel-Kues from the Mosel bridge.

Eltz Castle, Germany.

Luxembourg is a country smaller than Rhode Island with a population of just over 500K but is the 5th richest country in the world per capita. Besides some old churches and well designed buildings and bridges, there’s really not much to see. Which makes sense because this place really means business - information technology, biomedical, biotech, and financial services. If it's an indication of how rich this country is, the taxis here are Teslas.

A Tesla Model S taxi, Luxembourg.

Amsterdam is the capital city of Netherlands. What else is there to know about Amsterdam besides its liberal laws on drugs and prostitution? Amazingly, it has some of the most beautiful architecture and most diverse population in Europe. But the best thing about Amsterdam for me and Tess is that it is home to the Van Gogh Museum. We are huge fans of Vincent - his life and his paintings. Visiting his museum is a dream come true. This museum has most of his work, including "Sunflowers." However, his most popular one, "Starry Night," is not here. It's in the Museum of Modern Art in New York.

Amsterdam, Netherlands.

Red Light District, Amsterdam, Netherlands.

Tess poses with her favorite Van Gogh, "Sunflowers."
Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam.

The same thing can be said about Brussels, the capital of Belgium. What makes it stand out for me is that it has the best beers in the world, including the ones made by the Trappist monks - the most sought-after of them all. These beers, made in limited quantities, don’t have labels on the bottles. The labels are on the caps which are color-coded based on the alcohol content and rarity. Trappist beers consistently win the annual contest of beers. (I didn’t know they had one until now.) Tony and I had the yellow-capped, Westvleteren 12, the rarest of them all.  I am not a beer connoisseur by any means, but it is the best bottle of beer I’ve ever had. Prost to Deutschland!

Trappist beer, the best of them all.

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Leaving Provence (6/7)

We’re leaving Provence today with heavy hearts but with very fond and vivid memories. Yesterday was no exception. Before we checked into our Airbnb, we explored the inner city of Avignon - its narrow and intricate streets, quaint squares, and ancient buildings that surround the Papal Palace. Yes, the pope has a palace in Avignon.

Avignon inner city, France.

The Papal Palace, Avignon, France.

We all know that the papacy has a long and colorful history but one thing Tess and I didn’t know is that the Papal Enclave - essentially the Vatican itself - moved to Avignon in the 13th century for 67 years! It all started when a French bishop, Clement, was voted pope. Part of a political maneuver, he decided to run the Catholic Church in France, from Avignon, built and designed the palace to replicate the functions of the Vatican including the Sistine Chapel where the enclave met and voted succeeding popes for 67 years before it was moved back to Rome. Fascinating to say the least!

Some of the popes buried at the Papal Palace crypt, Avignon, France.

When I returned our car rental this morning (a mid-size SUV), I felt so lucky that I did not cause a single dent or scratch considering I drove it on tight, rugged, and winding roads with maniacal drivers on them.  Not to mention the unsafe parking spots that were frequented by petty thieves. I now understand why the rental company was very anal in cataloging the original condition of the car and insisting I take their insurance (which I respectfully declined). Next time, I will rent a smaller and lower-profile vehicle. Another luck: my rental was a hybrid, saving me a lot of money in gas which is very expensive in Europe.

Although the train ride from Avignon started somber, we were soon excited about the final leg of our European vacation - Germany and its surrounding countries Luxembourg, Netherlands, and Belgium.

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Provence in Early Summer 2019 (5/7)

We've been in Provence for four days now and so far, this place has exceeded our expectations. Our Airbnb in Menerbes is great! There's nothing like going home to a peaceful chateau at night and waking up in the morning to a spectacular view of the Luberon valley from our window. Francois and Maria, our hosts, are exceptional!  Daily breakfasts with them are usually with French pastry, eggs omelette, and fresh fruits from their garden. Every morning they ask what our plans are and offer recommendations on sights to see and restaurants. We oblige and we don't get disappointed.

Roussillon is famous not only because of its colored history but more strikingly, because of its colorful landscape. The exposed earth that abound are in shades of yellow, brown, and red. That is because the town sits on one of the biggest ocher deposits in the world. The ocher is also treated and used as primary building material and so the houses and buildings are also in these beautiful colors. Naturally, Roussillon attracts many artists inspired to capture its vibrant beauty on canvas. For tourists like us, our cameras and smart phones are good enough. 

Roussillon, Provence, France.

Gordes is undeniably the most beautiful hilltop village in Southern France. Google it. To get the best picture, there is a popular spot on the roadside approaching the town. You have to be very careful, however, because this spot is a flat rock extending out on a cliff with no protective barrier, whatsoever. If you can overcome your fear of falling down a rocky precipice, take the shot during sunset when the sun is behind you and the town is awashed with the soft amber light. You will be rewarded with the most "gorges" photograph. Get it?

Funny story. We approached the photo spot with a group already taking turns snapping shots. Since there was no line or any semblance of organized rotation, we estimated when it was going to be our turn and at that moment, Tess stepped on the flat rock and I got ready with my camera when an older gentleman said, "Excuse me, there's a line," and pointed to a gaggle next to him of what looked like his tour group. Here's why it's funny. In many of our travels we run into tourists who can be so rude -- cutting in line and sometimes shoving people out. This group looked like them and at first we were shocked to hear them say we have to get in line! But from the courteous English we quickly realized our mistake and Tess apologized and a friendly conversation ensued. They even volunteered to take our photo.  Touché!

Gordes, Provence, France.

L’Isle sur la Sorgue is an "island town" along the Sorgue River and its tributaries and is the only one among all the towns that we visited that is not on a hill. Waterside restaurants and cafés abound. Outside of town is the Lavender Museum. Yes, there is such a thing, and yes, my wife wanted to go in there. I told her I really didn't want to and would rather wait in the car; she gave me THE stare it felt like I was melting.  Needless to say, I learned about lavenders more than I care to know.

Lavender Museum, L’Isle sur la Sorgue, Provence, France.

After the museum tour, across the street was a boulangerie next to a patisserie. I told my wife, "Hey look, a bulalo restaurant next to a patis store!" (Filipino joke.) I don't think she has moved on from the lavender museum snub incident because she didn't think it was funny. We got to L’Isle sur la Sorgue just in time for lunch and we were surprised to see so many people on a weekday! Maybe because it's summer, the town attracts people from all over to its open-air markets, antique stores, and waterways.

L’Isle sur la Sorgue

This waterwheel on the Sorgue river used to power a paper mill.

Bonnieux probably is situated on the steepest hill in all of Provence. But if you're up to it and willing to hike all the way to the summit, where, interestingly, the parish church and cemetery are located, you will be rewarded with a spectacular view of the valley and the towns on the opposite hills, i.e., Gordes and Roussillon.

View from the summit of Bonnieux, Provence, France.

Downhill from Bonnieux is the town of Lacoste. Yes, this is the town that the clothing and apparel brand was named after. But, disappointingly, there is nothing extraordinary about this town except that, according to Francois, it has the moniker of "Ville Fantôme," or ghost town because the large houses are empty most of the year because they are summer getaways for rich Parisians. We drove by and, yes, the town was mostly empty. Maybe it's too early in the summer. A pleasant surprise awaited us, however, at the foot of Lacoste - a big plantation of lavender in full bloom!

Lavender plantation, Lacoste, Provence, France.

Maria told us over breakfast, "You have not gone to Provence unless you visit Marseilles. And you must go to the restaurant on the harbor next to the City Hall, they have the best seafood bouillabaisse."  So, before lunch one day, we drove south for just over an hour to Marseilles on the A7 freeway, the quickest route, but with a stiff toll -  €25. Yup, that's about $28 USD! We went straight to the harbor and looked for parking. And we looked. And we looked. OMG, the place was so crowded it took us almost an hour to find a safe pay parking spot! We were so hungry we beelined to the nearest seafood restaurant recommended by the Trip Advisor app. Damn Maria's recommendation. I really don't think the restaurants differed much, the food was so good!

Marseilles harbor, Provence, France.

After lunch we walked around and, would you know, the City Hall is only a block away! Tess and I looked at each other and, overcome with guilt, went to the restaurant and ordered their seafood bouillabaisse. We were so stuffed afterward, we skipped the sightseeing and went straight home.

On our last night in Menerbes, we walked by the town square where they had a stage set up where local musicians were playing to celebrate "Fête de la Musique" or National Music Day. On stage was a long-haired guy playing the guitar and singing Beatles songs. We were told that this same thing was happening all over France. What a concept, the whole world should have a Music Day! We watched and listened for a while then walked to our favorite restaurant, Bistrot Le 5. The place was overbooked and there was a momentary confusion with our reserved premium table. Luckily, our favorite waitress, who booked us, was there to save the day. She said, "I had to fight for you," with a big smile as she sat us down. Once again, the food was amazing. An added bonus tonight was a really awesome live band.

Live band at Bistrot Le 5 Restaurant, Menerbes, Provence, France.

After a long dinner, at close to 11pm, we went by the town square again and sure enough, they still had musicians onstage so we sat down to enjoy the rest of the show. After a while, Tess stood up and left, I assumed to go to the rest room. A few minutes later, she came back with a grin on her face, just in time for the emcee to announce, "We have a guest singer from Hawaii, monsieur Richard, please come up to the stage." I stared at her in disbelief and she said, "Go, they're waiting!"

I've been known to crash restaurant and club gigs but this is like a concert in a foreign town celebrating their National Music Day! Not sure if it was the gratuitous wine during dinner or the tentative self assurance that none of these people knew me and I'm out of there the following day, but I did get up on the stage, borrowed a guitar, and backed up by an awesome pianist, sang a song. The crowd must have had too much beer and wine at that point because they were too generous with their applause afterward.

Yours truly onstage during National Music Day, Menerbes, Provence, France.

The following day, after breakfast, we bade Francois and Maria goodbye and left Menerbes with a heavy heart. This town, its people, and all of Provence will forever be etched in our memories.

Au revoire, Maria and Francois, our gracious Airbnb hosts, Menerbes, Provence, France.

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Menerbes (4/7)

On June 18 we headed to southern France from Paris on a high speed train, passing quaint towns, lush meadows, verdant fields, and got off in Avignon.  Quite a few romantic movies have shown this train route, one off the top of my head is "French Kiss" with Meg Ryan and Kevin Kline. After about 2 hours of tentative driving and getting used to our hybrid rental car, we reached Menerbes, our adopted home town for the next week. And so begins the highlight of our European vacation, a fulfillment of one of my wife's adolescent fantasies: Provence and its lavender fields.

High speed train to Provence.

Menerbes is nestled up on a hill in the lower southern range of the Luberon mountains. After carefully negotiating its tight roads, we reached the town center and began looking for our Airbnb. Road signs in French and trying to decipher the email directions made it a little challenging. We started asking around but not before long, it was Francois, the owner of the Airbnb, who found us. 

Cobbled stone town square of Menerbes.

We checked in to our room. Actually it’s a small house called a Cabanon with 12th century architecture complete with stone masonry, large wooden trusses, a fireplace, but with modern plumbing, electricity, and furnishing. Located on top of the hill overlooking the Luberon valley and part of a cloistered property that used to be assigned to the parish priest. Makes sense because we’re right next to an old church that is now only used for marriages and baptisms. 

800-year old church next to our Airbnb.

Our view is breathtaking. In the valley below are vineyards and fields of wheat, and yes, lavender. In the distant is the Luberon mountain range with thick foliage, dotted only by equally quaint villages including Rousillon and Gordes, and a rock quarry that, according to Francois, supplies all the building stones for the region.  Getting close to summer, the sun rises early and sets late majestically over the Luberon valley and provides dramatic lighting to this landscape masterpiece.

Our Airbnb overlooking the Luberon valley, with the Luberon mountains in the distant.

Over dinner of ratatouilles and beef stew and the mandatory wine, locally produced of course, Francois and Maria mesmerized us with amazing stories. This senior couple has been all over the world. Francois is a retired anthropologist whose job has taken him to Vietnam, Africa, and South America, including Colombia where he met Maria. They are both descendants of renowned families. Francois is a son of a French Army general who was aide to Charles de Gaulle and who was present at the meeting between CDG and Roosevelt during WW II. Maria brought out an old black and white photo of the event.

Francois and Maria, our Airbnb hosts.

According to Francois, Menerbes, has survived many conquests and wars dating back from the Mongols, the Ottoman, the Crusades, and the French Revolution. During WW II, it protected some Jewish families and also provided safe haven for Pablo Picasso, the Spanish painter.  Today, Menerbes remains a quaint village with a population of just over  2,000, but thanks to the Internet, has become a popular destination of tourists with distinct tastes, from all over the world.  

A casual walk around town after dinner ended with a night cap of rose at an outdoor pub. The locals are very friendly and most speak English.  On our walk through tight and quiet alleyways back to our Cabanon, enjoying the cool moonlit night and the ubiquitous scent of flowers, we couldn’t help but be thankful for taking this overdue trip to this marvelous place. 

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Musee Louvre (3/7)

A heartwarming thing happened on the way to the Louvre that defied one stereotype about Paris.  We stopped by a breakfast place, Le Pain Quotidien, that prides itself with its organic fare. The food was fantastic and the service provided by a young lady was friendly and wholesome.  The heartwarming part was that I inadvertently left my camera, a Fuji X-E2 I love so much, gifted to me by my oldest son, slung on the chair I sat on. She kept it for me until I retrieved it that afternoon. What a champ!

Once again, my wife’s foresight and research did not fail to impress me. The Louvre, as everyone knows, is the busiest museum in the world and the large number of visitors that day, a Monday, was no different. I’ve never seen anything like it! Most are here to see the Mona Lisa, which, according to our guide, is not even the best masterpiece the museum has. And that leads to the impressive foresight and research: hire a guide who will not only educate and entertain you on the vast collection of masterpieces but will skip you through the long lines and lead you directly to the more significant ones before the Mona Lisa, which is strategically positioned toward the exit of the museum. And as if on cue to prove the point during our tour, guess who we ran into, he and his wife listening attentively to their guide? Matthew McConaughey, the American actor. “Alright, alright, alright!”

Matthew McConaughey.

My favorite masterpiece in the Louvre is the statue of Venus de Milo. As I’m sure you know, this is the armless sculpture of the goddess believed to be the perfect form of a woman. A woman’s form has always been the favorite subject of many artists, and this one by Alexander of Antioch (130-100 BC), is no exception. Venus de Milo is not skinny as many supermodels are today. Her proportions are more on what many may consider on the voluptuous side.

A close second would be the painting “Coronation of Mary” by Carvallio. The painting has dozens of of characters on the canvas, each one detailed so finely with unique facial expressions, including that of the painter looking bored (yup, he inserted himself in the painting). The altar in the middle where Mary is being crowned by Jesus is in the shape of a hexagon, expertly and intricately rendered with all the lines in accurate perspective projections. This work was so admired by artists during its time, including Leonardi da Vinci, who said that Carvallio must have visited heaven to be able to capture such fine details.

Coronation of Mary by Carvallio.

To be able to get a full appreciation of all the masterpieces in the Louvre, one has to spend days in the museum. We spent three hours; not enough, but definitely a most rewarding experience. 

Oh yeah, almost forgot. The Mona Lisa.You literally have seconds to look at it before they ask you to move on.

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The Eiffel Tower (2/7)

16 June 2019

The last time I was in Paris was in 1989. I was a young airman in the US Air Force and was on my way back to my home base, Edwards AFB, California, from a mission in Marakkesh, Morocco.  I was part of a trans-Atlantic Abort Landing support team for the space shuttle. 

My team had an overnight layover in Paris and a few of us decided to climb the Eiffel Tower that night. During those times, the tower was not guarded at all and anyone can climb it any time of the day. I remember the view from the top was breathtaking and I promised myself to take my wife, Tess, here someday. Well, it took 30 years, but here we are in Paris enjoying its charm and beauty and all its iconic structures, including the Eiffel Tower. This time, we hired a personal guide - Matt.

Matt immersed us with fascinating details about the tower, but most importantly he got us past all the long lines and saved us hours, literally.

I am not going to bore you with the history and details of the Eiffel Tower; you can Google them anytime. What I am going to describe is the magical moment, like to many who come to see the tower, that Tess and I felt. 

The saying, “Paris is for lovers,” is true for unique and personal reasons and top of the short list is the Eiffel Tower.  The tower was omnipresent from the moment we arrived in Paris and settled in our Airbnb on Avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie, a few blocks away from the tower. Like a beacon, it was our constant reference point whenever we were walking around the city. 

Our magical moment happened not during the tower tour and not during the dinner boat cruise on the Seine, but on our last night in Paris. We met up with my brother, Jerry, and his family, who were also in Paris coincidentally, for dinner. Afterward, we invited them for a stroll to Trocador, a popular gathering place near the tower. As the sun was setting, we all captured the grandeur and golden beauty of the Eiffel Tower with our cameras, but more importantly we captured and forever preserved the images of love that flowed among all of us. The realization of how truly blessed we are to be able to travel long distances, in good health, to marvel at this iconic edifice that served as a backdrop and a silent witness.

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Bienvenue a Paris! (1/7)

Bonjour! Posting from Paris. My wife Tess and I got here yesterday after a grueling 17-hour plane ride from our home island of Oahu, Hawaii, broken down by an overnight stay in LA and a 3-hour layover in Dulles airport, Virginia. We had a chance to have dinner with two couple-friends - Edgar-Gerrie, and Jojo-Mylene, who are based in the LA area. Good times.

We were greeted by great weather - sunny skies and temps in the 60s. The taxi ride from Charles de Gaulle airport to our Airbnb in downtown Paris was smooth. Our enthusiastic host, Anastasia, met us at the main entrance, gave us the codes to 3 doors and led us through them and the elevator to our apartment on the 6th floor of our building on Avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie. Smooth.

Our welcome party of Parisian kids.

After a few hours of rest, we ventured out into our new neighborhood. On the way out we were greeted by a bunch of friendly Parisian kids who were so eager to try out their English and pose for a photo.  Our street is lined up with apartment and commercial buildings, some still standing from the Renaissance era, but typical in all Paris, all reflecting the beautiful architecture from that period. Late into the evening we found a popular restaurant, (thanks to Trip Advisor), "La Coincidence." The place was small, cozy, and unassuming, but the food - French of course - and service were great.

Day one of our 2019 European vacation couldn't have started any better. Looking forward to the rest - - two more days in Paris then off to Provence for six days before heading out to Germany, Luxembourg, Netherlands, and Belgium. Stay with us through my blogs, would you?

Next: The Eiffel Tower